PROTECTING
YOUR ART
Care
and Preservation of Works of Art on Paper
By Gary
Felgemaker
Now that you have purchased
that artwork take care of it! You have a responsibility to the artist
and yourself let alone thinking about resale value.
The greatest damage to
artwork is caused by sunlight. Drawings with watercolor, sketches
in felt pen, even photographs, will substantially fade if exposed
to strong sunlight. Sunlight will turn India ink drawings brown over
time. Digital photographs, even when printed on Epson paper and laser
color prints will, within three to five years, lose the color and
value.
The simple solution is
to use `UV' Plexiglas instead of regular picture glass. `UV' Plexiglas
will filter out the sun's harmful rays and will permanently protect
the work. The Plexiglas does not look any different than picture glass,
does not distort or tint the artwork and is not much different in
cost than regular glass. `UV' Plexiglas is definitely worth it!
The second threat to works
of art on paper is the framing. Many framers will dry mount or glue
your artwork onto a backing to keep it flat. Aside from the fact that
this will reduce the value of the artwork, it places the work in jeopardy.
Paper expands and contracts with the temperature changes. If the work
is mounted, it will expand and contract at a different rate that the
backing; over time, this results in the artwork buckling and even
splitting.
When you take your artwork
to your framer, ask for a museum mount. A museum frame
package consists first of a window mat. The mat should have three
to four inch wide margins to display the artwork and should be of
acid free 100% rag board. Acid free board was discovered by the Metropolitan
Museum of New York nearly forty years ago. Never use paper mat board.
This board, while cheaper, is very acid and will burn and discolor
your artwork within a ten-year period. You have probably seen old
newspapers that have turned orange and became very brittle. That was
the result of the acid content of the newsprint. The window mat keeps
the artwork away from the glass and prevents transfer of the image
onto the glass (this is particularly the case with felt pen drawings
and works sprayed with fixative).
The artwork should be hung
with linen tape onto a 4-ply acid free backing board so that the work
can expand and contract freely. Masking or other adhesive tapes should
never be utilized because the adhesive will penetrate the paper. The
backing board in turn is backed with neutral ph foam core board and
then the entire package put into the frame. If your work is museum
framed, it will be protected for 30-40 years.
If your artwork is damaged,
take it to a professional; you'll be surprised what can be done. Stains
and acid burns can be bleached out, paper can be cleaned, most backings
can be removed and tears can be repaired. Most artists utilize good
quality paper, but if the paper has an acid content or feels brittle,
it can be deacidified. And artist's mistakes can be corrected.
Recently, I worked on a
graphite portrait of a hot man by Tom of Finland. It seems that after
Tom had completed the sketch, he sprayed the artwork with fixative
without testing the spray first. The fixative shot out in big globs
like... like... a slave cuming after being kept in a chastity device
for weeks while being stimulated with an anal-electro device that...
ah, but I digress... anyway it turned the sketch into a very crude
messy drawing, which was never displayed. Utilizing solvents, the
fixative was removed and the pencil drawing was restored to its original
condition. But this type of work is very time consuming and very expensive.
It is always better to take good care of your artwork at the onset.
 
Detail of the damage before, and
the hot restored man after
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